Notes for Curious

Biggest perfume compagnies

These companies are at the base of the perfume market. They produce most of the chemical and natural materials that you can find in your favorite scents.

Every year, they invent new molecules, new processes for extracting materials, new processes for creating natural materials with biotechnologies, for example.

The most prestigious noses start in these companies and also design a good part of the perfumes which are then exploited by the brands.

1. Givaudan
2. IFF
3. Symrise
4. Firmenich
5. Kao

Santalwood: natural / chemical ?

The exploitation of sandalwood has become almost impossible in view of the massive use made of it in perfumes. At once fragrant but also fixative, it is indispensable in the structure of certain types of perfumes.

Perfumers have had to turn to chemical solutions to meet the massive demand for sandalwood essential oil that has become overpriced. Climatic aleas do not help stability of production.

Here are some alternatives to natural Sandalwood. Each molecule has different facets.

Santalwood Alternatives

1. Givaudan: Javanol, Sandela, Radjanol and Ebanol
2. IFF: Bacdanol, Sanjinol and Santaliff
3. Kao: Santal Mysore Core
4. Symrise: Brahmanol, Sandel 80 and Sandranol
5. Firmenich: Polysantol

The Rose "Queen of flowers"

Did you know that it usually takes 5 molecules to recompose a rose? Indeed, this complex flower has several hundred molecules, but not all are odorous. To get to mimic the smell of the rose we need these 5 molecules:

1. Pheniletylic alcohol
2. Geraniol
3. Citronellol
4. Nerol
5. Eugnol

Two roses are used for perfumery, the Damascena which grows mainly in turkey and the Centifolia the famous rose of Grasse. They are all different and depending on the season the smells are not the same. Certain proportions of this or that molecule transform the overall fragrance of the flower. Perfumers are therefore forced to make mixtures of different years to produce a rose that will keep a similar smell over time.

What's the Amber ?

Amber (yellow, bleu, or red) From Pinus Succinefera a resin of a pine fossilised Pinus Succinefera essential oil have a rezinous, woody, leathery smell. But when it's fossilised it have no scent.

Amber Grey

Concretion of sperm whale who float over the sea during a long period and give a very special scent. A animalistic scent, sweet and pleasant. It's a great classic of base note for perfumes.

Amber of perfumer

It's an accord obtain by the combination of two raw material: Vanillin (molecular extract of vanillia or not) + Labdanum Ciste resin is extract from a little mediterranean tree called ciste.

It's one of the most used accord in perfumery.